FAQ

EMS 3.0L CA625+ TQ Specifications

1.) Make sure the threads in the block are clean and free from debris.
A. Blow head bolt holes out with compressed air, in some situations you may need to
use a flat bottoming tap to properly clean the holes.
2.) Lightly coat the bottom of the stud with some of the provided ARP Ultra Lube or engine oil.
3.) Install the stud into the block hand tight.
A. Be sure to clean any excess lube or oil off of the deck surface once all studs are
installed.
4.) Install a new cylinder head gasket.
5.) Carefully slide the cylinder head on to the engine block.
A. Be careful to no hit the bottom of the head on the studs during installation.
6.) Install the washers with the knurled side down.
7.) Apply ARP Ultra Lube to the threads of the stud, the top of the washer (part that contacts
the nut), and the bottom of the nut.
8.) Following the torque sequence below, torque the nuts to 35 ft-lbs and loosen them 3 times
in a row.
9.) Finally, following the torque sequence below, torque the studs 35 ft-lbs, 55 ft-lbs, and then
100 ft-lbs.


For best results, we recommend letting the engine sit overnight and rechecking torque,
when possible.

Engine Break-In Instructions

1) The engine will show up already having been run on our test stand and checked for compression, oil pressure, oil leaks, and coolant leaks. This also means it will show up having already had 1 oil change. (Sealed Engines only)

2) When you receive the engine, we recommend using a break-in oil or a conventional oil at a minimum. Run this oil for 500 miles. Always use Motorcraft oil filters (FL400s).

3) Change the oil and filter again and continue using conventional oil for another 1000 miles.

4) Change the oil over to whatever oil you prefer, hopefully a nice synthetic oil. We really like using Liqui Moly, German Castrol, or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum depending on availability. If you are on a budget, Motorcraft oil isn’t bad at all. Run an oil that is somewhere within 5w-30 to 10w40.

EMS – 3-PORT MAC VALVE KIT Installation Guide

EMS 2.0/2.3L Spec Ca625+ TQ Specifications

1.) Make sure the threads in the block are clean and free from debris
A. Blow head bolt holes out with compressed air, in some situations you may need to
use a flat bottoming tap to properly clean the holes
2.) Lightly coat the bottom of the stud with some of the provided ARP Ultra Lube or engine oil
3.) Install the stud into the block hand tight
A. Be sure to clean any excess lube or oil off of the deck surface once all studs are
installed
4.) Install a new cylinder head gasket
5.) Carefully slide the cylinder head on to the engine block
A. Be careful to no hit the bottom of the head on the studs during installation
6.) Install the washers with the chamfer side down
7.) Apply ARP Ultra Lube to the threads of the stud, the top of the washer (part that contacts
the nut), and the bottom of the nut
8.) Following the torque sequence below, torque the nuts to 35 ft-lbs and loosen them 3 times
in a row
9.) Finally, following the torque sequence below, torque the studs 35 ft-lbs, 55 ft-lbs, and then
80 ft-lbs.


For best results, we recommend letting the engine sit overnight and rechecking torque,
when possible.

How to install Aux Fuel Adapter and Rail

When adding more power, you’ll need more fuel.

Here’s our step-by-step instruction on >> How to install Aux Fuel Adapter and Rail?

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Difference between TS, ST, and 2.3L blocks.

The TS block is identified by its semi-closed deck and the shared coolant jackets between cylinders. The 2.3 block is an open deck block and has a bolt-on water pump housing. This distinguishes the 2.3 blocks from the others and can lead to confusion when swapping to the ST or TS blocks.

READ ALL > What is the difference between the TS, ST, and 2.3L cylinder blocks?

 

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